Put down the toothpaste and step away from the scrubs. I appreciate how tempting it is to throw everything but the kitchen sink at an angry red blemish, but let me promise you this: all those internet hacks are making the situation worse.
The solution is a spot treatment: but not just any spot treatment. The shelves might be heavy with creams, gels, serums and stickers, but not all blemish busters were created equal. A lot of traditional spot creams are loaded with alcohol that makes them astringent with a capital A: great for making the skin feels satisfyingly squeaky-clean, but not such good news for your moisture barrier. Strip the bad stuff too enthusiastically, and you’ll be removing the good stuff, too, leaving the door open for redness, irritation and extreme dryness.
'It is important not to be too aggressive on the skin, particularly if you suffer with congestion and acne,' confirms consultant dermatologist Dr Ophelia Veraitch. 'Over "stripping" your skin can cause more oil production, peeling, pigmentation and even worsening of your acne.’
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The true solution lies not in annihilating those pimples with harsh formulas, but in nurturing the skin while dissolving the oil and grime at the centre of a spot. Dr Veraitch recommends six main ingredients to her patients hoping to treat breakouts. Below, she walks us through them:
- Zinc sulphate: controls sebum, or oil production. In fact, a recent study found that topical zinc sulphate can be as effective as taking oral antibiotics for acne.
- Niacinamide: helps soothe the inflammation and improve blemishes caused by acne.
- Salicylic acid: helps remove the top layer of skin and also helps reduce skin congestion. It can also bring down redness and inflammation in acne-prone skin.
- Tretinoin or retinol: these vitamin A derivatives are powerful anti-acne ingredients. They help reduce the severity of acne breakouts, clear up existing breakouts and reduce the dark spots left behind by acne.
- Topical antibiotics: these target the bacteria P.acnes that is implicated in the development in acne. Topical antibiotics, such as clindamycin, also have anti-inflammatory properties to help soothe the redness and inflammation.
- Azelaic acid: has anti-inflammatory properties to help with breakouts. It is a particularly effective ingredient at addressing the irregular skin tone that can be caused by acne, and the redness associates with rosacea flares.
So, when it comes to treating breakouts, you have options. Luckily for you, we’ve consulted the experts to reveal exactly which ones are up to the task, unclogging those pores without leaving skin irritated. From soothing toners to stickers and a few stellar spot gels, these are the treatments to trust. Now, step away from the bathroom mirror.
The best spot treatments to rely on now
Dr. Sam Bunting is one of the experts we trust the most when it comes to treating skin scientifically and sensibly. From her own line, this milky spot gel employs salicylic acid alongside azelaic acid: one of Sam's favourite ingredients for bringing down inflammation. Gentle yet remarkably effective, it can be worn day or night, and sits well under make-up. A wise investment for everyone, but especially those with rosacea, acne and sensitive skin.
Dr Alia Ahmed, consultant dermatologist and GetHarley clinician recommends Acnecide: a leave-on gel for acne-prone skin. "The key ingredient is benzoyl peroxide, which helps to unclog pores and acts an antiseptic," she says.
"It can be applied directly to the skin twice a day, or a 'hack' I advise my clients to try is to apply directly to large spots to shrink them quickly and avoid post-acne marks." As benzoyl peroxide can cause irritation, Dr. Ahmed highlights the importance of introducing the product slowly into your regime, and always following with a gentle, active-free moisturiser.
A real powerhouse product, this one contains three of Dr Veraitch's recommended ingredients: salicylic acid, niacinamide, and azelaic acid. Use it as an on-the-spot treatment each evening, after cleansing and before moisturising.
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Proof that you don't need to spend triple figures to get a handle on your acne (in fact, over-complicated regimes often make things worse), dermatologist Dr. Alexis Granite recommends Cerave's Blemish Control Gel. "The salicylic acid fights blemishes while glycerin and hyaluronic acid prevent over-drying the skin, and niacinamide calms inflammation."
From Dr. Sturm's teenage skin-focused collection, this intensive spot-clearing formula contains shale oil, which is traditionally used to treat damage and skin wounds, alongside pre- and probiotics and calming tiger grass. When it comes to usage, you've got options: use it as an intensive mask, apply it on-the-spot overnight, or use a thin layer beneath make-up during the day.
While expertly formulated products for acne were once confined to the doctor's office, over-the-counter brands are now moving into the space at a pleasingly rapid rate.
Beauty Pie is one of the first to bottle up the skin-calming powers of azelaic acid with its affordable, accessible Happy Face line. Containing 10% azelaic acid alongside calming centella asiatica and niacinamide, this gel moisturiser works to calm the inflammation associated with both rosacea and acne, bringing redness down in a matter of days. And if you're not yet a Beauty Pie member, you can take advantage of the 60 day free trial currently on the site.
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Caudalie's latest success story is a smart spot treatment with a pale-green tint, which works to gently mask redness. It contains a dose of salicylic as well as niacinamide and tea tree, and works especially well under a concealer during the day.
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The Inkey List Succinic Acid Blemish Treatment
Succinic acid is a relative newcomer to the spot-treatment scene, and it’s used to triumphant effect in this affordable hero. The headline ingredient balances excessive oil production, while salicylic acid clears congestion and hyaluronic acid stops the skin barrier from drying out.
Now for the caveats: this one smells pretty terrible, thanks to the colloidal sulphur inside. It’s also green, so you may not want to nip to the shops while it’s on your face. However, you’re not here for pampering: you’re here for performance – and in that arena, it truly delivers.
If any beauty product is worthy of 'cult hero' status, it's this unassuming grey bottle. So good, there's one in every ELLE beauty team members' cupboard, the Paula's Choice BHA toner uses a potent dose of salicylic acid to deeply cleanse congested pores, tackling breakouts right from the source. Swipe it on a few nights per week to start seeing rapid improvements.
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If the occasional breakout has developed into more acute acne, smart digital dermatologist service Skin + Me is here to help. For a fraction of the price of an in-person private appointment, you'll get an online assessment of your skin, and a custom-blended treatment cream delivered to your door. They'll even give you your first month on the house.
Deeper, under-the-skin spots are famously hard to treat topically, as most formulas don't penetrate well enough to work.
However, the latest addition to Murad's derm-developed Blemish Control line is designed to ease the swelling and inflammation associated with cystic acne, bringing down both the visible redness and the physical pain. The secret is a high-strength co*cktail of salicylic acid and calming cherry extract, locked into the skin via an invisible film-forming polymer.
Long-trusted by those with breakout-prone skin, Le Roche-Posay knows exactly how to create a no-nonsense spot cream. This targetted gel uses a high dose of niacinamide, which restores order when your oil production slips into overdrive.
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Dr Angela Tewari, consultant dermatologist and GetHarley clinician, recommends calling on a hydrocolloid spot sticker when a pesky breakout rears its head right before a special occasion. "Using one twenty-four hours before an event will make an excellent improvement to small spots and breakouts," she says.
Tewari recommends Zitsticka's supercharged patches in particular: working harder than a traditional sticker, these ones feature tiny microdarts that send a combination of salicylic acid and niacinamide into the skin, right to the source of the spot. This means they can lend a hand before a breakout comes to a head, helping accelerate the entire cycle.
Discovering a burgeoning breakout might not be a carnival, but dealing with it doesn't have to be drab.
For those prone to picking, these pimple patches will not only cheer you up, but underneath, the hydrocolloid dressing will shrink spots in a matter of hours. Seriously, wear them out and about – it's a (joyfully progressive) vibe.
Roberta Schroeder
Senior Ecommerce Editor, Luxury
Roberta Schroeder is the Senior Ecommerce Editor at Harper's Bazaar, ELLE and Esquire, overseeing shopping strategy and content across fashion, beauty, and travel. Roberta has reported on everything from market-leading skincare brands to the world’s most iconic fashion pieces, while also regularly updating a range of shopping guides, including LED masks, heritage cashmere brands and niche new dress brands to know.
Roberta has more than 15 years' experience in the luxury sector, spanning editorial consultancy, trend forecasting and journalism. Over the years, she has worked for global brands including Farfetch, Chanel, and Vogue.
When not testing beauty products, trialling trends and curating content that spotlights the very best in fashion and beauty, Roberta can usually be found trawling resale sites and vintage stores for a long-coveted designer find. Follow Roberta on Instagram at @roberta__schroeder
