How much should i offer? (NB) [Archive] (2024)

MX-5 Miata Forum > All Miatas > Pricing and Dealer Discussion > How much should i offer? (NB)

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bigwidegrin

17th May 2016, 01:44

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2005&zip=21740&sellerTypes=d&sellerType=d&maxPrice=20000&pricesOnly=true&mmt=%5BMAZDA%5BMIATA%5B%5D%5D%5B%5D%5D&vehicleStyleCodes=CONVERT&modelCode1=MIATA&showcaseOwnerId=77684&startYear=1981&makeCode1=MAZDA&firstRecord=0&searchRadius=75&listingId=427399219&Log=0

http://images.autotrader.com/hn/a50fff4d11df4ec4885e09e847065e89.jpg

2004 Mazda MX-5 Miata MAZDASPEED
87,801 miles
$10,990

Hurt

17th May 2016, 02:34

Offer whatever you want. It's their car, they can ask whatever they want. You aren't required to buy it.

Stock4Me

17th May 2016, 05:20

It's May and you're shopping for a convertible. Prices are not going to be cheap.

I bought both of mine in April, in Florida. They were selling on Craigslist in hours, not days. I paid the asking price and was happy to do so. :thumbs:

My intent was to buy the 2nd one later this fall. But then I saw one I liked and within the hour it was mine. :rofl:

Your mileage will vary.

tweak89

17th May 2016, 08:11

I picked up my 2004 Mazdaspeed with 106k miles for $6500 (in Texas). They were asking $8500. I told them after my research that's all I was willing to pay (even showed them several competing adds as well as the median prices from KBB and NADA). People really tend to overvalue their cars when it comes to selling and they check retail pricing, which is usually wildly different than private sale pricing.

shoult

17th May 2016, 08:27

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2005&zip=21740&sellerTypes=d&sellerType=d&maxPrice=20000&pricesOnly=true&mmt=%5BMAZDA%5BMIATA%5B%5D%5D%5B%5D%5D&vehicleStyleCodes=CONVERT&modelCode1=MIATA&showcaseOwnerId=77684&startYear=1981&makeCode1=MAZDA&firstRecord=0&searchRadius=75&listingId=427399219&Log=0

Unless you just have to have a MSM because you know, Mazda, you could buy a better turbo'd Miata for less money even during the summer.

NW Bill

17th May 2016, 09:48

What is attracting you to this particular overpriced car?

If it is the turbo, reread what Shoult wrote. In perfect condition, the MSM turbo system is entry level. To get it to moderate power level (around 200 whp) will require upgrading -- see FM or BEGi for kits designed specifically to address the MSM turbo weaknesses.

If it is for the special MSM body and interior bits, and 17" wheels, the few photos provided are inadequate for even a preliminary check on condition. This includes the top.

I didn't see a timing belt change on the Carfax, so that is about due. Folks often replace the water pump with it, maybe the seals.

This was a Virginia car and is now a New York car. It needs to be checked for rust.

Nice that someone added an AuxIn to the stereo (if the dealer listing is correct), but that is a relatively cheap upgrade (depends which AuxIn was used, but none are very expensive).

The answer to the question in the thread title depends on the answers to these other questions, and more. This is still an 11-year old car with multiple previous owners, most recently used as a lease vehicle, then to auto auction. Due diligence is always in order, but even more so here.

And then there's buying a convertible sports car in Spring, when a young (at heart) person's fancy turns to zoom-zooming in the open air....

Bill

MX-5inAR

17th May 2016, 10:22

Austin, TX might not be local to you but I highly recommend checking out this car being sold by a respected member here. Perhaps you could come to an arrangement that makes it worth your time to fly there and drive it back. Or get it transported to you.

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=607605

billythekid

17th May 2016, 13:47

I'd be willing to pay $8.5K for it, if: it is reasonably rust free; clean inside and out; and has no mechanical defects.

If there are no repair records I would deduct about $600 for TB/WP. If it needs brakes I would deduct $500 per axle, If it needs tires I would deduct $150 per axle...

Shibby

24th May 2016, 09:25

I've been meaning to write up my findings on this car to help the community.

There's a laundry list of issues with this car.

Exterior
It was dirty when we looked at it. Not a car issue, but wasn't presented well enough to pay 11k for it.
Car previously had a bra. There's a paint fade line across the hood
There's a paint fade pattern on the rear fender where both edges of the rear spoiler span into the rear fenders. You can't see the fade until you open the trunk.
Wheel barrels are corroded.
Headlights need the 3m treatment
Front right tire had an egg on the sidewall.
Date codes were from either 2010 or 2011 (can't remember specifically)

Interior
Doors sound like the windows are off track. Serious rattle on both doors when closing.
Boost gauge is cheap and doesn't work. I think it's just a power issue cause the vacuum line (aquarium tubing lol) is run to the rear of the intake manifold and secured with tiny red zip ties

Drivetrain
Intake filter is unsupported
Whine/whistle at the top of third gear
Exhaust is a Cherry Bomb glasspack with extremely bad welds.
Needs a new radiator

My friend offered 9k for it, which is probably at least 1-1.5k too high. Dealer is convinced he can get his asking price for it.

For more pictures, google 'pine manor mazdaspeed'.

If anyone has any other questions, feel free to ask/PM.

chacend

24th May 2016, 14:22

Well its a dealer, so no worries about offending the seller. Go as low as you want, they can only say no.

Vince3

24th May 2016, 16:23

I've been meaning to write up my findings on this car to help the community.

There's a laundry list of issues with this car.

Exterior
It was dirty when we looked at it. Not a car issue, but wasn't presented well enough to pay 11k for it.
Car previously had a bra. There's a paint fade line across the hood
There's a paint fade pattern on the rear fender where both edges of the rear spoiler span into the rear fenders. You can't see the fade until you open the trunk.
Wheel barrels are corroded.
Headlights need the 3m treatment
Front right tire had an egg on the sidewall.
Date codes were from either 2010 or 2011 (can't remember specifically)

Interior
Doors sound like the windows are off track. Serious rattle on both doors when closing.
Boost gauge is cheap and doesn't work. I think it's just a power issue cause the vacuum line (aquarium tubing lol) is run to the rear of the intake manifold and secured with tiny red zip ties

Drivetrain
Intake filter is unsupported
Whine/whistle at the top of third gear
Exhaust is a Cherry Bomb glasspack with extremely bad welds.
Needs a new radiator

My friend offered 9k for it, which is probably at least 1-1.5k too high. Dealer is convinced he can get his asking price for it.

For more pictures, google 'pine manor mazdaspeed'.

If anyone has any other questions, feel free to ask/PM.

$9000 does sound high for this car. Probably is $7000-$7500 car at Best as it sits.
I'd rather pay up for a better specimen if you have your heart set on a MSM (?)...

...or just get a nice well-kept NC. :)

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