How To Dress Well When You're A Big Guy: The Definitive Guide (2024)

Whether you’re naturally big-boned, have an under-active thyroid, or just enjoy consumingseveral pies at once (no judgment, no shame), the overweight guy shouldn’t be exempt from looking like a star. Here’s how to nail your style game no matter how much timber you’re carrying…

The most important thing to understand when it comes to fashion for the larger gent is that most ready-to-wear fashion brands are not your friends, nor are the countless magazines and fashionistas that parade around in their clothes.

We’re here to show you some of the best available brands or bigger men but, even more crucially than that, how to make their garments help you look good. Ordering a t-shirt is easy, but knowing which pants, jackets, or shoes to pair it with… that’s where the fun really starts.

Whether you’re going for a smart, casual, or (you guessed it) smart casual look, here are our top tips for looking your big, bold, best.

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Style Advice For Bigger Dudes

Employ Visual Trickery

The key to looking sharper and slimmer is using visual trickery. Firstly, minimise surface area. This means always tucking dress shirts into trousers and with a belt to break up the belly from the crotch.

Creating a vertical line is another easy win — using a v-neck or a row of shirt buttons, for example — drawing the onlooker’s focusto the centre of the body, not your gut, and emphasising its length rather than its breadth.

Darken out the big places — belly, butt or thighs — that you don’t want to emphasise, and wear lighter tones over your slimmer areas. We all have our not-bad-to-better assets, so understand yours and make them work for you.

Solid Neutrals & Classic Prints

To prevent yourself from looking like a giant piece of fruit, avoid blocked bright hues such as red, purple, green, yellow and pink on your shirts and tops. Coloured pants are fine but solid neutral colours are where you shine: navy, chocolate, olive, black and grey. These broad, block spaces in dark shades help complement your shape, perfect for tees, jackets and knits.

Look to classic patterns like checks and vertical stripes on button shirts, as theyhave a distractive element and spice up a boring work look.Try working checks into shirts in dark hues and subtle stripes on blazers in muted tones. It’s all about light textures with prints rather than anything with busy graphics or patterns.

Terrifically Tailored

Every man needs a good tailor and the larger gent is no exception. Thanks to the inaccessible size ranges of many off-the-rack brands, we recommend skipping the boutique immediately and seeing the man with the tape measure and thread instead.

Made-to-measure suiting or bespoke — where you can select everything from button colour to lapel width — will cost more than an in-store suit but it will fit you like a glove and likely last a hell of a lot longer.

A quality fabric in a timeless hue will last you through the ages. For trousers, opt fora full break on my pants, with the pant skimming heel or slightly shorter. The jacket should cut the shoulder sharply and when fastened should sit flat with no pulling, nicely obscuring the belly.

Pick The Right Fabrics

Light yet sturdy fabrics should make up your wardrobe. Too thick, and the materials will add bulk to your frame; too thin and you’ll be exposing your lumps and bumps. For suits, separates, coats and knits, go for wool, cashmere and silk, avoiding polyester. Heavy, cheap fabrics retain heat and lead to increased sweating.

Cotton is key for shirts, tees and chinos but all of these benefit from a small amount of polyester too; the synthetic fibre can add durability and sturdiness, as well as offer shape and fewer crinkles.Go for smooth, natural fabrics that hang close to the body without looking chunky.

Selvedge denim is key for jeans and will mould to your shape for a customised fit. When it comes to other pant styles, natural fabrics will keep you cool while sturdy fabrics help create a clean line from the waist to the ground.

Keep It Simple

Simplicity is your fashion friend. Search for clothes that are clean and shaped to the body. Structural suits, jackets and blazers add a nice ‘squaring’ from the shoulders down and give shape automatically. Then, as the coat drapes, the body becomes naturally framed and contained within the garment. Again, structure is key for bottoms too.

Trousers are the silhouette you want, as opposed to track pants and athletic gear which can sometimes look a little sloppy (unless you’re working out, of course, in which case they’re obviously ideal). Separates provide a nice flat front but ensure they are clean and without pleats. If the occasion is more casual, chinos are the big guy’s off-duty go-to.

Other simplicity tips: eliminate chunky wallets and keys from pockets by investing in a document holder, briefcase or backpack for a more streamlined stride.

Spread Collars & Wide Ties

When you have to dress formally, try to make sure that your shirt has a spread collar. If you have no idea what a spread collar looks like, check out our guide to different collar types. But basically, it means you should go for a wider collar. A good way to check is by looking at the angle where the collar meets the top button and ensuring it’s wider than 90 degrees.

Also, don’t bother trying to wear all those thin, ridiculous ties they make these days. Embrace the wider ones!

The idea here is that wide collars make your neck and face look less wide, and wide ties also make your torso look less wide.

A little more on how to dress formally: If possible, replace your belt with braces. Belts draw attention to your waist and clearly divide your body in half—you don’t want that. Finally, don’t wear short-sleeve shirts with formal attire, it doesn’t look right.

Key Big Man Fashion Items

Suits For Big Guys

As above, we recommend getting your suit custom-made. Go for low-rise trousers, with a short break and cuffed leg length. The jacket needs to be sharp on the shoulder and avoid double-breasted; a single button is great for creating a focal point that streamlines.

Jackets & Coats For Big Guys

A cropped bomber or leather biker jacket provides a cool, lean silhouette. In warmer weather, an open shirt over a V-neck works too. Incolder weather, a long overcoat is a great way to make a solid impression with your whole body. Opt for traditional brands like Hackett or Burberry.

Knits For Big Guys

Sweaters need to be wool or cashmere in a slim fit. This helps flatten the front over the belly but only if close and without bulge. And opt for a v-neck to create the vertical line. Knits can be chunky, but fitted and cardigans are key wardrobe necessities. Opt for one with a collar, like the shawl type, for the appearance of tailoring while being casual.

ShirtsFor Big Guys

V-neck tees and Henleys should be your staples due to their slimming neckline and vertical focal points. Vertically-striped business shirts are great too — just remember to tuck that thing in. Solid brands include Ralph Lauren, Saturdays NYC and Perry Ellis.

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Bottoms For Big Guys

Shorts aren’t kind to you, so opt for knee-length shorts if the summer weather beckons, avoiding cargo shorts with bulky pockets. Opt for low-rise (a shorter distance between the top of the waistband and the crotch)chinos or pants and don’tsit trousers under your belly as this lengthens your torso to appear short-legged and stumpy.

Check out short and trouser brands, Nautica and Maine New England — made for larger lads.

Jeans For Big Guys

Perfect big-guy brands for jeans include Wrangler’s Texas Fit, Lee’s Brooklyn Big & Tall, and J by Jasper Conran. Nudie Jeans and3Sixteendo great selvage denim, too.

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Accessories For Big Guys

Suspenders are key under a blazer or suit jacket for ensuring your trousers don’t slip below the belly. And pocket squares, lapel pins and ties are where you can add extra colour, texture and patterns to your look.